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Kleine geschiedenis: Gruen

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@RobertGerard schreef:


Dietrich Gruen

Birth: Feb. 22, 1847, Germany
Death: Apr. 10, 1911, Italy

A native of Osthofen, Germany, he was a pioneer of the pocket watch. Gruen was educated in public and private schools and learned watchmaking as an apprentice to Hans Martens in Friedburg. While studying at the Deutsche Urhmacherschule (German Watchmaking School) in Glashütte, Germany, Frederick Gruen became acquainted with Paul Assmann, whose father Julius had founded a successful and highly-regarded watch company whose clients included A. Lange & Söhne, a premiere German watchmaking firm. In 1894, Frederick, Dietrich Gruen, and Paul Assmann founded their own company in Glashütte. It was called Grünsche Uhrenfabrikation Grün und Assmann. This 1894 photograph, taken to commemorate the founding of the new firm, shows Dietrich Gruen (center) sitting arm-in-arm with Frederick (left) and Paul Assmann (right). The young boy at the far right is Paul Assmann’s son Ernst, who moved to Ohio in 1905 to work at the Gruen Company.

Dietrich Gruen began his watchmaking career as an apprentice. When he was fifteen, his family sent him south to the Black Forest region to learn the watchmaking trade. He apprenticed first in Eichstetten, and then in Karlsruhe, Wiesbaden, and Freiburg. He may have also studied in Switzerland. Although best known for producing cuckoo clocks, the Black Forest region was also home to highly skilled makers of pocket watches, with whom Gruen studied. After emigrating to America in 1867, he married the daughter of a watchmaker and went to work for her father in Delaware. In 1874, he moved to Columbus, Ohio and established the Columbus Watch Manufacturing Company.

On June 12, 1874 Dietrich Gruen applied for a patent on an improved safety pinion, which was granted on December 22. He was 27 years old. (During his time in the city of Delaware, Dietrich developed an improved center pinion for watches. He submitted his patent on June 12, 1874, explaining that his pinion design would protect the wheel train of a watch if the mainspring broke or became detached. Dietrich’s design may have been influenced by the years he spent working as a watch repairman, for he had seen the damage that could result from a broken mainspring. Gruen’s “safety pinion,” as it became known, was the foundation of his business ventures.)

In 1876 he formed the Columbus Watch Manufacturing Company in the basement of a downtown Columbus, Ohio bank building.

In his Columbus workshop, Dietrich modified, finished and cased raw movements that were imported from Switzerland. These new watches included his patented safety pinion. Dietrich introduced 16-size watches as an alternative to the heavy and thick 18-size and larger watches that were prevalent at the time. He also introduced the first stemwind watches sold in the U.S. market.

As the company grew, they moved to two floors in a commerical building a few blocks away.

In 1882, in collaboration with a number of new partners, the company was reorganized as the Columbus Watch Company and moved to a newly-constructed factory building located on Thurman Street, in the 'German Village' section of Columbus. Dietrich was President of the new corporation.

By 1888 production was about 45 watches per day; the company would grow to 300 employees and output to 150 watches per day. Although the company continued to issue stemwind watches, they also manufactured keywind movements for some of their less-expensive models.

After a series of disagreements with the other partners, Dietrich Gruen and his son Fred left the Columbus Watch Company in 1894, shortly before the business went bankrupt. Dietrich had lost his share of the company to the investors, and was faced with the prospect of staying on as a salaried employee at the company that he had founded. He chose to leave rather than bear this indignity. After the departure of the Gruens the firm was reorganized, refinanced and renamed "The New Columbus Watch Company."

The New Columbus Watch Company survived until 1903. The contents of the factory, including all the tooling and stocks of movements, were eventually purchased by the Studebaker family, moved to Indiana (along with many key employees) and used to start the South Bend Watch Company. Some early South Bend watches were sold with signed Columbus movements in them.

In 1894, Fred Gruen and Dietrich Gruen decided to try to start a new watch company. Using money borrowed from friends and relatives, Dietrich and Fred formed the partnership "D. Gruen and Son.".

These first Gruen watches are of very high quality and are beautifully made. Both 18 and 16 size versions were manufactured, each in both open face and hunter styles, and in 18- and 21-jewel versions. The earliest D. Gruen & Son serial numbers started around 62000. The Gruens dealt directly with individual jewelry stores; there were no wholesalers or jobbers involved in the distribution of their watches.

In 1898 George Gruen joined the firm as treasurer and financial officer. The company incorporated and its name changed to D. Gruen, Sons & Company.

In 1903 Gruen introduces its "VeriThin" line of watches.

In 1908 Gruen introduced both men's and women's wristwatches. These proved popular only with women. Gruen was one of a very few companies to take wristwatches seriously this early, seeing their potential in spite of disappointing early sales to male customers.

Gruen made both wrist and pocket watches for the military during World War I. Most had silver cases, which would tarnish but would not corrode under adverse conditions. To satisfy U.S. military regulations, these watches all have luminous dial markings and hands.

1911 Dietrich Gruen dies suddenly. Gruen died from heart failure while on a business trip on the steamship "Berlin" off the coast of Italy in 1911 when he was 64 years old. Fred Gruen (son) takes control of the company.

In 1913 the company purchased Nanny Goat Hill, a pasture just outside of Cincinnati, and renamed it Time Hill. Work began on a new building designed by architect Guy C. Burroughs at a construction cost estimated at $50,000 USD. The company moved to the new location in 1917.

1921: Gruen introduces The Cartouche wrist watch calling it "The logical wrist watch shape".

1922: Gruen introduces "The Pentagon" pocket watch. "the Croix de Guerre of American achievement"

Up until 1922 there had actually been three Gruen companies: D. Gruen, Sons & Company; The Gruen National Watch Case Company of Cincinnati; and The Gruen Watch Manufacturing Company of Biel, Switzerland. In 1922 all three businesses were merged to form the Gruen Watch Company, with Fred as President.

In 1924, Gruen released a special pocket watch in an edition of 600 to commemorate their 50th anniversary. The watch cost $500 at the time.

In 1925, Gruen introduced the men's Quadron. These were rectangular watches containing very high-quality 15-j or 17-j tonneau-shaped movements.

In 1928 Gruen releases The Techni-Quadron. The famous Techni-Quadron "doctor's watches" are so-called because the large seconds dial was handy for timing a patient's pulse.

In 1935 Fred Gruen, now 63 years old, became Chairman of the Board and Benjamin S. Katz was brought in as President of the Gruen Watch Company. In 1935, Gruen was about $1.8 million USD (roughly $36 million USD today) in debt; nervous stockholders and investors were behind the change. Fred would retire in 1940, but continued to sit on the board for the rest of his life.

In 1935 Gruen introduces the most famous Gruen wristwatch- "The Curvex". These watches are one of the greatest examples of 1930s streamlined design.

1937: Gruen introduces "The Ristside" or "driver's" watches.

In 1938, continuing the success of their VeriThin pocket watches, Gruen also launched a series of Veri-Thin wristwatches. Contemporary Curvex and Veri-Thin movements often are closely related, and can share many parts. By the 1940s, most Gruen wristwatches were either Veri-Thin or Curvex models.

Although Gruen did not manufacture watches for the U.S. military, they offered the public a collection of eight military-style watches, to be used as personal watches.

In 1949, the company introduced their first watches made entirely in the U.S., a line of 21-jewel men's models called the "Gruen 21". The movements are marked "Cincinnati" or "US" instead of the usual "Switzerland."

Fred Gruen retired in 1940 and died in 1945, and his brother George died in 1952. In 1953 the Gruen family sold their interest in the company. The same year, Gruen president Benjamin Katz was forced into retirement after a scandal, and in 1954 the company bought out his shares for $2 million USD.

With the changeovers in management and the loss of the Gruen family's involvement, the company lost focus and direction. In 1953, the Gruen Watch Company had its highest sales in its entire history. By 1958, the company (which had changed its name to Gruen Industries) was facing massive legal problems, had laid off most of its employees, and was selling off its properties, including Time Hill. Gruen Industries was so deeply in debt, and had already borrowed so much money, that they were unable to secure additional financing. The board of directors and stockholders were making newspaper headlines with petty squabbles and proxy fights. The company was falling apart, having seriously neglected the watch business as they pursued other activities (watch manufacturing was now relegated to a subsidiary division of Gruen Industries). The company bought the Canadian branch of Waterman Pen in May of 1956, selling off Gruen's own Canadian watch distributorships to finance it, then sold Waterman again in November of the same year, at a loss. To add to their problems, an $8 million USD military contract was cancelled and the company was hit with anti-trust lawsuits by the U.S. government.

Under new ownership, Time Hill was closed and the Gruen watch business moved to New York, continuing to produce mechanical watches for about another 15 years. All of the pre-1958 factory records, of no interest to the new owners, were destroyed. Rolex eventually purchased the Precision Factory and now it's a Rolex administration building. According to the Cincinnati Business Record, this incarnation of the Gruen Watch Company failed in 1976.

Post note; currently, some companies are using the names of a classic (defunct) watch companies like Elgin, Benrus, Waltham, and Gruen to market new watches. They sometimes purchase the rights to the brand names, and other times they simply use the brand names of companies where the trademark has expired. These watches may hold the name, and are sonetimes styled exact replica's of the original, but should not be confused with an orignal "vintage" watch. The watches are very different from the originals. Internally they use mostly quarz (battery) movements, instead of a mechanical one, and may not have the same quality or essence as the original. Please understand that I am not recommending against the purchase of these watches, only stating that the buyer should understand the difference.

Een mooi voorbeeld van een Gruen zakhorloge:

Bron: - TheWatchGuy.com
- Wikipedia

In depth article: http://immigrantentrepreneurship.org/entry.php?rec=219

Heb jezelf aanvullingen, foto van Gruen horloges ed?... plaats ze hieronder smile

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Wie weet wat over deze Omega De Ville?

Omega automatic verkeerde aankoop of niet?

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@goldie1709 schreef:

Een paar dagen geleden kwam ik op een advertentie waar een omega seamaster automatic aangeboden werd. Na een paar mails overgegaan tot aankoop. Het klokje zag er goed uit, en ik zag er wel iets in. de verkoper verzekerde mij dat het klokje goed liep, en dat enkel het glaasje in mindere toestand verkeerde.

Groot was mijn verwondering deze middag toen ik het pakje opendeed, en vast stelde dat dit om een dames uurwerkje ging.

Mijn eerste idee was, dat ik veel te vlug gekocht had, en dat dit weeral een les is om niet meer impulsief alles wat ik mooi vind te kopen.

Na alles een beetje te laten bezinken, begon het tij te keren, en kwam ik tot de vaststelling dat dit uurwerkje het waarschijnlijk wel waard is om een nieuw glaasje te laten zetten. Om mijn pols zal het nooit komen, maar misschien
wel om die van een mooie dame.

wat denken jullie??? Of heb ik er hier weer ééntje die hier zal stof vergaren??

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Rewel terug van service

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@Skv schreef:

Vorige week startte ik het volgende topic: http://www.horlogeforum.nl/t/horloge-stopt-met-een-tik/48037/19

Ik had het vermoeden dat de opwindveer kapot was. Per PM bood user @Inca mij aan om het horloge na te kijken. Het horloge is de volgende dag verzonden naar hem toe, waarop een levendige mailwisseling volgde.

Allereerst valt op dat het horloge qua plaat en binnenwerk er erg goed uit zag. Het is een Landeron 248. Laatste service is (getuigde de inscriptie in de caseback) in 1981 geweest en de main spring is inderdaad gebroken:


Deze moet dus worden vervangen.

Verder wordt het uurwerk schoongemaakt en opnieuw geolied.

Wat verder opvalt is dat het heveltje voor de reset van de chrono licht verbogen was. Op de onderstaande foto aangegeven met de zwarte pijlen.

Deze schuift over een ander 'heveltje', zoals zichtbaar op deze foto:


Uitleg leert dat als je op de pusher drukt, de hevel naar links gaat. Dan stopt de chrono. Bij nogmaals drukken op dezelfde pusher (pauze/reset is dezelfde pusher bij de Landeron).

Dit heveltje is ook gerepareerd en ik heb het horloge zojuist retour gekregen. Hij tikt weer heerlijk!

Nog een paar foto's van tijdens de service:





En natuurlijk: een wristshot!

De komende dagen even testen of alles werkt zoals het hoort. @Inca bedankt! smiley
Ook voor het geduldig beantwoorden van al mijn vragen, uitleggen hoe delen van het mechaniek in elkaar steken, delen van info over het caliber etc. Erg leuk en leerzaam!

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Kleine geschiedenis: Roamer

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@RobertGerard schreef:


Fritz Meyer

1888

The story of ROAMER, the brand of high-quality Swiss watches, begins with the ideal of its pioneering founder, Fritz Meyer (1859-1926), to create a robust yet elegant watch, a precious accessory which everyone would love to own. With this goal, he sets up his own business in Solothurn, Switzerland – a workshop with six employees producing cylinder escapements for the watch industry.

(The origins of the Roamer Watch Company hark back to 1888, when the first enterprise in what would later become MST, and ultimately Roamer, was established by the then 29 year old by Fritz Meyer. The Meyer workshop produced a single product - a cylinder escapement for sale to etablisseurs or assemblers.

In its earliest days the company had 6 employees and fitted in very much with the traditional Swiss cottage industry, whereby small independant workshops would each supply a single, or small range of specialised product(s) that would then be assembled into an entire watch by an etablisseur. It was this environment into which the company was born, and the later changes within the company to a large degree mirrored the changes in the Swiss watchmaking industry as it grew from a cottage industry into a modern industrialised manufacturing base - that is, mergers, aquisitions, modern integrated factories, and a continual move upwards in terms of quality.)

1895

Within only 7 years, the company grows to 60 employees and produces complete watches. In the same year the company develops its first own calibre and names it number 38 to commemorate the 38th birthday of the company’s founder.

(After only 7 years Meyer's company had enjoyed considerable success and was in a position to become an ètablisseur in its own right. Therefore in 1895 they began building complete watches - using ebauches, components, cases and dials made by other firms. A reversal of their earlier position in the manufacture of watches. As no brand seems to have been trademarked, it is likely that all production at this point was for other brands.

By 1897 Meyer could boast 60 employees and a major milestone in his ambition to become an integrated watch manufacturer - his first calibre, number 38 - named in honor of his 38th birthday. The calibre still used components from external suppliers, such as gears, but it is likely the plates and many other components were of Meyer manufacture. The movement iself was almost certainly a budget clyinder movement, as the company in these early days, was concentrating on producing large numbers of profitable lower quality movements. It was however, yet another step towards becoming an integrated manufacture, a long held personal ambition of Fritz Meyer.

The next step was the production of watches under Meyer's own brands. In 1900 the brand 'Femina' was registered for use in the profitable watch market for ladies - far more subject to fashion and the need for more frequent replacement than mens watches. Later in 1903 the 'Moles' brand was trademarked, and while I have never seen an example of a Moles branded watch, I presume it was intended for entry into the mens watch market.)

1905


Johan Stüdeli

This year heralds one of the most significant milestones for the fledgling company: Fritz Meyer enters into a partnership with Johann Stüdeli, who is trained and experienced in the art and tradition of the watchmaker’s craft. This is the start of the legendary «MST» watch.

(This decade was a time of massive expansion and success for the the company. 1905 heralded the most significant turning point for the fledgling company - when Meyer entered into a partnership with the watchmaker Johann Studeli forming the firm Meyer and Studeli. The new company continued to grow and in 1906 had 120 employees and opened a bright and spacious new factory. The new factory could accomodate 300 workers - more than twice the current size of the company.

The products at this time concentrated on cheap cylinder movements for mens and ladies watches. There are some claims made in modern histories of the company an example that MST began making lever escapements as early as 1906. However this date appears to be incorrect, as in horological periodicals of the time (i.e. La Fèdèration Horlogèrie - Suisse) advertising in 1908-1910 lists only cylinder and not ancre production, also the employee figures in the linked document (quoted as many as 400) are well in excess of the numbers (120) reported at this time by Flury in his treatise on the state of industry in Solothurn. Both of these claims therefore need to be disregarded in the face of contrary independant evidence.
The big news of 1908 was the registration of the Roamer brand in Switzerland, reg 23699. There has been considerable debate in other articles about when the Roamer name first came about, with dates ranging from as early as 1905 through to 1924. I have copies of letters signed by both F. Meyer and J. Studeli, dated 1920, giving the details of the Swiss registrations and in addition both make the statement that 'Roamer' had been in use by their company from that date. These letters provide unequivocal evidence and lay this question to rest. The Roamer brand was registered again in 1917, although no Roamer branded watches from the period 1908-1917 have yet come to light.
In 1909 MST began their foray into international markets - with the setting up of the UK branch (The Medana Watch Co.) by Fritz's son Leo Meyer. The UK was a significant stepping stone for MST and would remain one of their most important markets until the 1970s. After the setting up of the branch, management passed to another son, Charles Meyer in 1915 - a position he would continue to hold until his death in 1945. MST was truly a family enterprise. 1915 also saw the granting of MST's first registered patent - the first of several pertaining to concealed movement mounting screws.)

1906-1908

The «MST» movements developed and constructed by Meyer and Stüdeli quickly acquire an excellent reputation for their high precision and reliability in and beyond Switzerland. The manufacture continues to grow and a spacious new factory to accommodate 300 workers opens its doors. ROAMER, the name of the most successful line, is registered as a trademark in Switzerland.

1923

The watch production soars to one million units a year and the company begins to produce its own cases to control the overall quality and to reduce its dependency on external suppliers.

(The biggest news of 1916 was the purchase of the widely respected Messrs Tièche-Gammeter, who were makers of high quality lever escapements - with medals awarded at various international expositions. MST continued to make Tièche-Gammeter calibres under the brand Tièga until the later 1930s. The Tièga calibres were produced as a seperate range alongside the Roamer lever and Medana cylinder calibres, and are a fundamentally different design philosophy with the motion works driven via the barrel rather than directly from the centre wheel as in the Roamer designs and most others. The acquisition of Tièche-Gammeter also included the Vidar brand.

In 1917 MST became a Sociètè anonyme (SA) or in English, a limited liability company. The new company was chaired by Fritz Meyer, and the board of directors was at this time composed of: Johann Studeli, and Meyer's sons Leo, Charles, Hermann Meyer and son-in-law Heinrich Benisch. In 1918 the company made a move to differentiate their brands and product ranges. The Roamer brand was reregistered in Switzerland and became the premium name applied to MSTs high quality jeweled swiss-lever movements while Medana became the name used for the traditional clyinder, and then later, their pin lever movements In 1919 Fritz's youngest son Ernst joined the board of directors.
1920 saw the first attempt at entering the United States, with applications for both Roamer and Medana brands as trademarks in the USA and Roamer in the UK in late 1920.

The Roamer trademark was issued in 1921 in the UK, while a conflict with the makers of the Roamer Automobile in the United States delayed registration until 1922. The conflict was amicably resolved when MST reduced the scope of their trademark claim to exclude automotive items.
MST had obviously long been intending to incorporate case manufacture into the company for some time, with the case screw patents and later in 1922 a patent for a gold coloured alloy for use in cases. Case manufacture and polishing finally started in 1923. In compliance with Swiss governmental policy of dispersing industry, MST was operating a total of six branch factories with assembly and finishing departments in remote and non industrial area of the country.
In 1924 MST saw their highest daily production record of 5000 watches, a figure that they never again surpassed - even in the watch hungry post WWII period, due in part to the higher quality movements they were beginning to produce (which of course are more labour intensive), but also due to the Great Depression beginning in 1929.
1926 saw the death of Fritz Meyer, the founder and chairman of the company and marked the end of the companies first era.)

1940

The company now employs more than 1,200 people and starts to produce its own dials. An astute case providing excellent dust and water-resistance and simplifying servicing procedures is designed, developed and patented.

1952

The company name is changed to that of its most successful brand, becoming ROAMER Watch Co. SA, under which the famous timepieces have been sold ever since.

1955

Repeatedly improved over the years, ROAMER patents a watertight watch case which induces the company to launch its Anfibio line. Anfibio gains a world-wide excellent reputation for exceptional quality, endurance and reliability.

1927 The MST logo registered.

1932 All major compentents; movements, cases and now dials all made in-house. Note the MST branded dial printing machine in the photograph. By this stage MST employed around 1,200 workers. As was common with many Swiss companies of the time, MST offered extensive welfare assistance to its workers and their families - this would later become the Roamerhaus Welfare Centre.

1933 Patent: self-winding watch (CH 169396 US 2,013,386 GB 439677) Oscillating pendulum/weight.
1936 Patent: Two part waterproof stem (CH 180459), Ernest Morf (not MST) but will be used extensively by MST.
1938 Modern Roamer logo registered (UK)

1940* First automatic (bumper), using the Felsa 278/9
1941 Patent: Waterproof case (CH 215999), Ernest Morf (not MST) but will be used extensively by MST.
1945 Charles Meyer died.
1948 Patent: Bi-directional full rotor winding with small lost angle (CH272613), used in first MST rotor automatic.
1948 Patent: Decoupling of manual and automatic winding mechanisms (CH274012), used in first MST rotor automatic.
1950* First in-house rotor automatic MST 410/411, using patents above. Could be late 1940s.
1951 MST changed its name to its most prestigeous brand Roamer.
1952 Patent: Amplifying back design, for the alarm calibre MST 417 (CH 304446)
1953 A number of high profile engineers/horologists were associated with Roamer around this time and they made a significant contribution to the renaisance at Roamer in the 1950s. Time for a role call:
Bernard Humbert
People often express surprise that a mid range movement company like Roamer could produce a technical triumph of a movement so many years ahead of everyone else like the MST436 from 'out of the blue' so to speak. What is interesting is the renaisance MST/Romer went through in the 1950s, the developments of which resulted in the golden era of the 1960s. In this period almost 40 patents were granted to the company, 18 of which list Bernard Humbert as the inventor. From the patent dates it is clear Bernard worked with or at MST on their prestige automatic movement - the MST436 and was the major contributor to its design. So, why was this man so significant? He wrote articles that appeared in the Horological Journal and the Journal Suisse d'Horlogerie, amongst others. He was the author of three important horological books of the 1950s, Modern calendar watches: Detail of calibers, repair (1954) - for half a century one of the most widely used text and reference book on how to service, adjust and repair the calendar mechanisms in 20th century watches, and Swiss self-winding watches (1956), plus the reference on chronographs - The chronograph: its mechanism and repair. It is probably not surprising then that Bernard Humbert was also the Professor of Complications at the Watchmakers School in Bienne, and was widely feared by his students.
Walter Uebelhart
Two patents for Roamer from 1956 and 1957 for calendar mechanisms. Walter Uebelhart later worked for Le Coultre.
Andre Jeanrichard
Sharing the name of a famous horological family - perhaps a coincidence, perhaps not. He worked on automatic/manual winding mechanisms in the mid 1950s and was responsible for 3 patents.
Max Meyer
The Meyer family were still invoved at the cutting edge, for example, in 1953 Max Meyer, patented an automatic rotor bearing.
1955 Patents: Improved waterproof case design (CH 305467, 305776, 307382, 308491 ).
1955 Anfibio launched.
1955-1959 Many patents for calendar mechanisms. Development of the calendars was for the MST 430/436, in the meantime Roamer used Felsa 4002 (MST 441) and 4007 (MST 452) automatic movements with date alongside their in-house (and non date MST420).
1959 Patent: Eccentric micro/precision regulator (CH338769)
1962 MST414/430 and the star of the lineup the 44 jewel MST 436 launched.
1967 Dr Ernst Meyer dies
1968 Max Meyer appointed as CEO, and unfortunately dies at a young age - ending the family control of the company. Until becoming CEO Max Meyer was in charge of calibre design, and his untimely death can be attributed to the stress from the development of the MST52X family of movements with their problematic date mechanisms in conjunction with the concurrent development of the first Roamer quartz movement.
1972 First quartz watch.
1973 Last patent? Date and day advance mechanisms. Used in 52X? Check.
1975 Movement manufacture halts. "The Roamer Watch Co. in Solothurn, one of the last remaining family-owned watchmaking firms in Switzerland, is closing its independent watch-parts production in a drastic reorganization and has been granted a four-month moratorium on..." This is from the American machinist: Volume 119, 1975 and is the only snippet of information we have.
1983 Meyer family ownership of Roamer comes to an end. Roamer was incorporated into the the Swiss ASUAG group (Société Générale de l'Horlogerie Suisse SA) and held in trust for a brief period.
1985 Purchased by a former Roamer marketing director Hrr. Leval and returned to independant manufacture under his ownership. At this time Hrr. Leval rescued a remant of the company archive from the basement of the former Roamer building which is retained by the current companytoday. Thanks to this action precious historical documents avoided destruction.
1994-2012 Roamer was purchased by the Hong Kong based Chung Nam Company and later (in 2009) reencorporared as a 50/50 venture between Chung Nam and the luxury focused Swiss Watch Group. During the entire period Roamer was left to function independently in Switzerland. The current chief designer worked for Roamer in the original family owned company and the company maintains links with former owner Hrr. Leval. The company is currently located about a 5 minute walk from their historic headquarters. The current company continues with a solid historical connection to the original family owned company.
All text and images are either © 14 or © Roamer Watch Company.

1972

ROAMER presents its first quartz movement, the ROAMER microquartz. Some excellent ROAMER quartz diver’s watches and chronographs are introduced throughout the seventies.

2003

With the launch of the Competence collection, ROAMER reconnects with its traditional past as the producer of mechanical watches.

2010

The success story of the «Quality Time Made in Switzerland» continues: ROAMER presents further collection milestones and affirms its position as one of the most powerful Swiss watch brands in the medium price range.

2013

In 2013, ROAMER celebrates its 125th anniversary. The strong tradition of high-end production and constant innovation has made ROAMER a Swiss watch brand with a renowned international standing.
With a long-term vision as its guiding principle, ROAMER is expanding its retail presence in core markets, while focusing on the competitive price/performance ratio that is at the heart of its appeal to men and women who appreciate unique design and excellent craftsmanship made in Switzerland at a reasonable price - a commitment which has forged the brand’s identity and reputation.


Fabriek nu

Ambassadrice

Alphorn musician Eliana Burki is the exclusive ambassador for the traditional Swiss watch brand Roamer of Switzerland.
The partnership between the charismatic alphorn player Eliana Burki and the Swiss watch brand Roamer of Switzerland expresses the passion and the profound connection that these two partners feel for their homeland. Both are deeply rooted in the traditions of Solothurn, Switzerland.
Roamer is focusing on its identity and authenticity as a genuinely traditional company in the Swiss watchmaking industry. This is also why Roamer is so proud to welcome the young musician Eliana Burki as its ambassador: she embodies ‘Swissness’ in a thoroughly charming and innovative way, so she is the perfect ambassador for the Roamer watches.

(Bronnen: Roamer, Kris Bubendorfer)

Geweldige site: http://roamer-watches.info/

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Inkomend: impulsaankoop

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@flowert schreef:

Goedemorgen beste forumvriendjes.
Ik zou graag even een beroep willen doen op jullie expertise. Ik heb de onderstaande jongen op een website gevonden en er direct een bod op gedaan. Ik kan er niets over vinden en ook de foto's op de website waren erg vaag, maar toch besloten er voor te gaan. Vanmorgen kreeg ik bericht van de verkoper dat ik hem mag overnemen, dus geld overgemaakt en nu afwachten.
Het is een jump hour van Vulcain. Niets bekend over het uurwerk of wat dan ook. Ik kon op de foto's alleen zien dat hij nagenoeg in nieuwstaat is.
Wat denken jullie? Juiste beslissing gemaakt? Iemand die bekend is met dit model?

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Record WW2?

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@marnixmoed schreef:

Op de afgelopen Rikketik heb ik een Record horloge gekocht. De verkoper vertelde me dat het een WW2 horloge was die werd gebruikt door de Engelsen. Even een Google plaatje

Nu kwam ik een website tegen waarop verteld werd dat deze horloges weer niet tijdens WW2 zijn gebruikt. Iemand die me iets meer over kan vertellen?

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Welk merk gebruikte dit logo?


Kleine geschiedenis: Zodiac

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@RobertGerard schreef:


Ariste Calame

Ariste Calame (1839-1917) first set up a workshop in 1864 in Cret-Vaillant.
The watch company was founded in 1882 by Ariste Calame. The original name of the company was Ariste Calame. It was a small workshop.

The trade mark Zodiac, now over a hundred years old, was only registered in 1908, after having been used for years, by the grandson of the founder of the factory which was run at that time under the family name of a dynasty of watchmakers: Calame.)

The known roots of this family go back to 1537. They are clearly older because the name Calame is to be found in the archives in Le Locle in a document of that time. This states that the lord of the region, Lord de Valangin Rene de Chilland, was promoting the members of this family to the rank of "free-dwellers".

Finding small holders to occupy the land before others took it over was a policy followed for a long time by the Lords of Valangin and Neuchatel, but also by their neighbors.
So it was that in 1650 Guillaume Calame left Le Locle, attracted by the advantages offered by the Prince-Bishop of Basel, sovereign of a territory corresponding to the present Jura including the Franches-Montaganes at the north-east frontier of the Calangin seignuery- now the eastern end of the district of La Chaux-de-Fonds. He set up house St. Le Creux-des-Biches near La Ferriere, twenty kilometers or so from Le Locle.

And it was here that the matchmaking dynasty began; in 1820 you find Jacob Calame, owner of a domain here with extensive buildings, meadows and pasture lands. He was a watchmaker-farmer and had at various times housed soldiers and horses when allied troops (Austrians, Russians and Poles) had passed through the area in the ware against Napoleon in 1815. His son Julian was also a watchmaker, but in Saint-Imier.

Le Locle

In 1864 a descendant of Jacob Calame returned to Le Locle, Ariste Calame set up house at No 7 Grande Rue, and paid 6 francs 70 in tax twice a year, on St. Martin’s and St. John’s Days, when workers received their hall yearly wages. At that time a kilo of bread cost 10 centimes and a pound of beef 24 centimeters.
To place this little anecdote on its historical context, we note in passing that Ariste Calame showed his republican sympathies in 1648- the year of the Neuchatel revolution which saw the overthrow of the representative of the King of Prussia, who was then the country’s sovereign.
After an apprenticeship as an assembler, he finally set up on his own in a small workshop at Cret-Callant which he turned into a watch trading house, with first one, then two and then five workers, whom he looked upon as friends. He sometimes worked for the other watchmakers including the celebrated Jurgensens, but above all he supplied watches to Favre-Perret.
He opened his trading house at a transitional point between two eras, at a time when the Swiss watch industry had scarcely recovered from the shock of 1876.

Shock of 1876

The Swiss watch industry led a peaceful life with its fine craft production. Until 1876 when the famous Philadelphia Fair opened and showed the world and the Swiss watchmakers, who were at first incredulous, the enormous progress made by the mechanized American watch industry.
The shock was followed-those who experienced the shock caused in 1974 by the quartz electronics firms can easily imagine it-by a new awareness, fuelled by a report that is still famous from the Swiss delegates to Philadelphia, who included Jacques David of Saint-Imier and Ed. Favre-Perret of Le Locle.
The need to produce in batches and mechanize watch production having been proved, the struggle to do so began. Influenced by enlightened people, mechanization was adopted which was above all suited to the interchangeability of component parts, the keyterm at the time, together with the reorganization and concentration of the companies.
Which was what the complete watch manufacturers, who lived side-by-side in the watch industry with those that only assembled watches and sometimes supplied the latter with special "ebauches" had negated to do. This with the certainly that the vertical concentration of operations under one roof within one and the same factory, contrary to the assembly of parts from outside, was "the latest thing" in modern matchmaking. It was still the case nevertheless that the essential part of the work was based on craft methods and skills, on improving watch mechanisms and making them more sophisticated, rather than on machines.

The time lost was caught up: statistics show that in 1896 in ten cantons the Swiss watch industry produced 4 million watches worth 100 million francs and employed 20000 men and 14000 women, very high figures for that time. Figures which it would be ridiculous to try and compare with those of today, when with slightly fewer people results are achieved which ate 10,20,50, or 60 times higher in value; none of the circumstances are the same. )

Industrial reorganization, integration of the mechanical manufacture of "ebauches" and component parts perhaps reinforced a primary form of concentration but brought a crisis in terms of quality in the "etablissage" systems under which production was still dispersed and lacked homogeneity.
The crisis in quality degenerated into a prices and profits crisis and followed the eight crises that had been experienced between 1837 and 1889.

It was probably because of these difficulties, which lasted until 1896, that the family firm hardly expanded, but it nevertheless provided Ariste Calame with a livelihood and security. 1896 was the year of the Paris World Fair and the revival of the industry. In 1890, when Ariste retired at the age of 61, Switzerland exported 7.3 million watches with a value of 120 million francs.
Louis-Ariste Calame was 25 years old in 1900, in the heyday of the Belle-Epoque. However, he did not have a chance to enjoy the pleasures of Paris. He had just got married in Le Locle and, with his wife as assistant, took over the company from his father.
A company where, according to the description his son Rene gave the Zodiac Congress organized for its 75th anniversary in 1957; there was plenty of family dynamism at that time. The brother-in-law also set up at the time as manufactures of complicated watches while at the Calames, the company expanded rapidly enough to give up manufacturing as a sub-contractor for Favre-Perret and became an exporter, in particular to Japan, a market reputed to be difficult: and for what a distributor. Relations were established with no less than Hattori-Seiko, whom there is no need to introduce.
By 1903 the premises were too small and Louis-Ariste Calame and his wife moved to the rue du Marais to a large workshop where they centralized manufacturing and prepared to carry out batch production.

Like other industrialists, Louis-Ariste favored an advanced policy for those times: controlling production from A to Z and standardizing quality to the maximum. The only way to do this was to become a complete manufacture, to design, make and perfect the necessary tools and ebauches as well as taking charge of all stages of manufacturing, in order to achieve a finished product with its own individual character and be able to approach the markets with a clear brand policy.
The trade mark Zodiac-which had long been used-was soon registered. Relations with Japan improved, the orders came flowing in and the dream of building soon came true. On 1st May 1908 the factory in which the company was to remain until 1950 was inaugurated.

Between 1908 and 1914 Zodiac manufactured its own caliber’s and movements and employed around fifty people. The pistol shot at Sarajevo brutally shook Europe and its dreams of prosperity. During the 1914-18 war the demand held up and even strengthened in certain markets. There was an ever fiercer price war and in the post-war years it was necessary to produce a lot to earn anything.

Having put too many eggs in one basket, the factory suffered badly during the crisis years of 1921 and 1922-and worse still form 1932 and 1934, but we have not got there yet. Louis-Ariste had been one of the first industrialists to work towards setting up the Federation of the Associations of Watch Manufactories- now called the FH. In November 1923 his son, Rene A. Calame, a matchmaking technician, joined him as an employee.

The younger generation was to give new impetus to the company, both commercial and technical: fashions had changed with the arrival of wristwatches, which called for new design calibers.
The 1930’s brought economic crisis and its procession of unemployed, which passed through Le Locle. Prudently, the from became a limited company. The hand times passed.
As Rene A. Calame, a new co-director at that time recalls: "From 1930 onwards, we were more and more successful thanks, it should be emphasized, to the confidence which old and new customers showed us. This is the greasiest asset that a company can have."

In 1945 business had grown to such an extent that the other brother took over as commercial director. The company was classified as one of the leading medium sized watch companies, but its premises had again become too small.
The inauguration of the new factory Bellevue 25 in Le Locle did not go unnoticed. Its bold architecture-Le Locle is not far from La Chaux-de-Fonds, the birthplace of Le Corbuster-in an eye-catching position above the town and its station, is evidence of a certain brave sprit of enterprise.

The same went in 1986 for the large extension and the inauguration of a new building adjoining the earlier one: an ultra-modern factory much commented on in the Swiss press, particularly the specialized press from which we have taken the following: In the tast five years the watch industry’s average rate of increase was 8%. During the fast four years Zodiac doubled its sales, which is equivalent to an annual growth rate of 25%.
This growth was the result of a substantial effort in terms of production and the use of modern machines, while profits achieved through rationalization were systematically reinvested in quality, for which there were 92 control stations during the course of manufacture. Zodiac level of quality, confirmed by the Watch Testing Office-the manufactures’ bogy-was 50% higher than the Swiss average.

Products Honors List

1924 Launching of the first extra-flat pocket watch based on
The Zodiac caliber 1617.
1930 Launching of one of the first Swiss automatic watches.
1932 Invention of the Autographic power reserves indication systems, now sought-after collectors piece.
1932 Invention of one of the first modern shock resistant system.
1953 Lauching of the Seawolf, professional sports and divers’ watch.
1965 Zodiac wins a prize at the Montres et Bijoux Exhibition in Geneva.
1967 First prize at the World Fair in Montreal
1968 Launching of the first Swiss electronic watch, Dynortron.
1968 Launching of the first fast beat, 36,000 oscillations per minute automatic watch, in parallel with other brands.
1969 Invention and launching of Astrographic watch, which caused a great sensation.
1970 Launching of the first Swiss analog quartz watch, the famous Beta 21 calibre.
1974 Patent for a shock-resistant watch case.
1977 World’s first LCD watch to obtain an official chronometer certificate.
1978 Launching of world’s slimmest quartz watch and, using traditional technology, the flattest automatic watch with calendar.
1990 New Zodiac presents its collection at the European Watch, Clock and Jewellery Fair in Basel.
Advertising support and PR activity; in 32 magazines and newspapers of worldwide importance and circulation as well as local and regional press and TV in five continents.

At the Zodiac 90th anniversary Congress in 1978, Pierre Calame, who had in the meantime become the managing director, recognized that the economic climate in which it was taking place was bleeding discouragement and lassitude.
The Swiss watch industry’s 20-25 years of prosperity and its quasi-monopoly position worldwide had a perverse effect; the relative lethargy always linked to facility and success. As this period had ended and the watch industry was faced with new circumstances, innovative solutions and polices were called for.
It was with this positive attitude that Zodiac’s general policy was reviewed:
Irreproachable quality in its ultra-modern factory.
Design; a major asset at Zodiac where individualized and original models in new shapes appeared under the names Astrographie, SST 36,000, Kingline, Olympos, Sea Wolf, Cordair, Aerospace, GMT, Spacetronic, Modul-O-Quatz, etc.
Loyalty to the retail watchmaker; the high quality watch remains the preserve of the specialist.
Quality after sales services on the theme "Our responsibility begins-it does not end-with the sale of a Zodiac watch."

Transition

In a period in which concentration was the universal panacea, the magic formula to solve economic problems, Zodiac decided in favour of independence and relying on its own resources in order to make the most of its technical and commercial ability.
In concluding his very wide-ranging speech to this last Zodiac Congress, Pierre Calame particularly stressed that the battle looked as if it would be very tough.
"A very hard process of natural selection is taking place in our industry and the smallest mistake in this struggle may be fatal. We see clearly that 80% of our success will come from the quality of the effort made by you, our customers."
The importance of the front line of sales can never be overemphasized. A blow on this front put Zodiac in a difficult position and forced it to ask for a financial arrangement.
Paul Castella, head of the world famous Dixi group of Le Locle brought and saved the brand. Next, an experiment in "managing" the brand, antrusted to specialists in watch marketing, failed to bear the hoped-for-fruit. It should be stressed that this was during one of the worst periods of the economic crisis.
In 1982, it’s centenary year, Zodiac was virtually merged with Zenith. The Bellevue buildings were henceforth to be part of the Dixi machine factory.
The production of Zodiac watches is currently entrusted to the Zenith Watch Company’s factory in Le Locle, which gives us leave to claim that the high quality that was the pride of the Calame dynasty has been 100% preserved.
Design and innovation, marketing, sales, and exports are handled at the headquarters of the new Zodiac SA in Neuchatel.
The new Zodiac is in the hand of Willy Gad Monnier, the former managing director of a large watch manufacturer, whose experience in sports watches-a specialty of the brand-is recognized in the entire world’s markets.
While we are at it and as a drawing or photo is worth ten thousand words, let’s have a look straightway at the new collection.
Willy Gad Monnier, a major shareholder and managing director of the new Zodiac, joined the watch industry when he finished his education. He was head of a company, which went through all the postwar periods of matchmaking. He has acquired considerable experience, particularly in terms of management and above all, traveling with a collection case, in markets internationally.
His objective is to secure a place for Zodiac and its traditional quality, not only through production but also by respecting the loyalty built up in the distribution channels leading to the watch retailers.
In terms of the product, there will be a certain degree of specialization in sports and so-called "technical" watches.
The fact of having inherited a prestigious past will not prevent Zodiac from building the future with the same dynamism as young companies with no history behind them.
Zodiac has used the world of sport as the focal point of its collection, in line with the tastes and exceptions of a public that is young, dynamic and in a state of constant movement. All the models are made in stainless steel with screw-in crown and screw back and are water restraint to 200 meters. The advertising and PR message had sport at its most daring as its theme and Zodiac has enlisted the help of a professional diver, the first Swiss woman guide and a canoeist-explorer. )
A watch was placed in the Arthur Collection at the NAWCC Museum marked "Ariste Calame."

(The current history the Zodiac Swiss Watch Company

1990 - Willy Gad Monnier, a former Tag Heuer principal, buys the Zodiac brand and modernizes all Zodiac models with a definite Tag Heuer influence. This company went bankrupt in late 1997. These models can often be found on the Internet at bargain basement prices! This is because Swiss law protects the parts manufactures who are allowed to assemble these parts into watches and sell them off so that they do not get stuck with useless inventory.
From Oct/Nov 97's ©Europa Star Magazine

ZODIAC WATCHES GOES BANKRUPT: The Neuchatel watchmaker Montres Zodiac SA has declared bankruptcy. The company was founded in 1888 in Le Locle, Switzerland. According to its director, financial difficulties caused the firm to close its doors. He cited unpaid deliveries, a decrease in orders and a loss of bank credit lines a the main reasons for the brands problems. The main market for Zodiac's products was the USA. Six people have been laid off. The firm is looking for someone to take over the brand.

Sept. 1998 – Genender International, Inc. (a US company in Wheeling, IL) buys the ZODIAC inventory, all of their trademarks and registrations and other assets out of bankruptcy from the Swiss Courts. Genender also manufactures the Smith and Wesson, Levi’s, B.U.M., and other inexpensive Far East watches.
Genender discontinued all of the “Point” series models, the Swiss Formulas, the Sea Wolf, and most automatic watches as well as all automatic chronographs. The only two 1990’s models kept were the Super Sea Wolf and the Marine Life, both of which were updated with new metal bands.

In October 2000 Genender introduced the Sea Wolf II, an aggressive evolution of the long-standing Sea Wolf diver’s watch but it was only available in a quartz model. They also introduced the Astrographic 2000, a sleek updated version of one of the most known and favorite models ever in the Zodiac line. This watch, like its predecessor, was a mystery model, meaning that the hands appear to float over the dial, as they are painted markers on transparent disks. The Astrographic was well received by the watch industry and was written up in several publications.
October 2001 – Fossil Inc. purchases the Zodiac Swiss brand. Fossil announced that it has entered into a letter of intent to acquire three separate companies located in Switzerland. These companies will provide the Company with design, sourcing and production capabilities necessary to manufacture and market Swiss-made watches. Fossil News Release
In November 2001 Fossil announced that it had completed the acquisition of three separate companies located in Bienne, Switzerland. These companies, Montres Antima SA (“Antima”), Meliga Habillement Horloger SA (“Meliga”) and Synergies Horlogeres SA, (“Synergies”) provide the Company with design, sourcing and production capabilities necessary to manufacture and market Swiss-made watches.
Antima, established in 1919, designs, sources and assembles Swiss-made watches under both owned and private label brands. Meliga serves as a component sourcing group offering watch bands, cases and other watch components to various well-known Swiss-made watch manufacturers. Synergies designs and develops watch prototypes for various companies worldwide. The Company’s Swiss watch manufacturing operations will be operated separately from its core FOSSIL brand business. Fossil News Release
When this author contacted Fossil about its intent for the Zodiac brand he was told the following:
“I will do my best to answer all of your questions. Basically, as per our discussion, we will not be moving forward with any styles from the current (Genender) collection, but will instead be re-launching the brand with a new collection at the Basel Show in April 2002 with retail delivery in the Fall. All I can say at this time is that the collection will be Swiss made and will be comprised of 3 families: Classics, Sports and Fashion. Pricing and distribution (have yet) to be determined. We will be contacting all former distributors and dealers and discussing future opportunities with us when we have more information to offer.”
This discontinuation of the current line includes the new Astrographic 2000 models and the Super Sea Wolf, both of which just became instant collectables as the Astro 2000 was made in VERY limited quantities and the Super Sea Wolf, the premier diver's watch, will no longer be made after almost 50 years.
April 15, 2002 – Zodiac 1882, AG has introduced the new Zodiac line at the Basel Watch Show in Switzerland this past week. Some of the new models are shown on their web page at www.ZodiacWatches.com.)


Fabriek nu

(Bron(nen): Zodiac, Vintage Zodiacs)

http://www.vintagezodiacs.com/

Mijn Zodiac:

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Vintage wijzerplaten

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Broertjes van andere moeders. Pontiac Jumping en Dugena Yachting Chronographs

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@GhentWatch schreef:

Net deze Dugena op de kop getikt. En hem naast zijn broertje gelegd. De Pontiac Jumping.
Deze horloges waren populair in de vroege 70s en de Yachting kleurtjes op de subdials maken ze helemaal af.

De wijzerplaat die van een diep paarse kleur is verandert van een nagenoeg zwart in de schaduw naar een zeer licht helder blauw in het licht. Echt magistraal vind ik deze.

De Dugena komt in de verkoop trouwens.

Genoeg gezeverd hier de foto's.


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Wie herkent dit merkteken?

Kleine geschiedenissen

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@RobertGerard schreef:

Tot nu toe verschenen:





Zaterdag: Junghans

Dank voor jullie interesse!! smile

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Kleine geschiedenis: Junghans

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Erhard Junghans

  • 1 Januari 1823 in Zell am Harmersbach, Baden; † 9. September 1870 in Schramberg) hij was een strohoed- en uurwerkfabrikant.

The Junghans company was founded by Erhard Junghans and his brother-in-law Jakob Zeller-Tobler in Schramberg (The Black Forrest/Schwarzwald) in 1861. Until today, the original site remained the company’s headquarter. Since the very beginning, Junghans has always been standing for precision and topquality manufacturing. While the company initially specialised in the production of individual components for clock-making, Junghans began constructing and producing its own clocks in 1866. The registration of the Junghans trademark, the 8-point star, in 1890 marked the start of an era of patents and procedures which provided the company with significant advantages regarding quality and manufacturing: Junghans clocks became globally popular timepieces which were accessible to all. Junghans was already employing 3,000 workers in 1903 and selling 3 million clocks per year, making it the biggest clock factory in the world.

When Erhard Junghans died in 1870, his wife took over the company, then from 1875 the two sons Erhard jun. and Arthur. The second one had thoroughly studied the efficient production facilities of the new technology during his travels to America. Thus many production-related innovations found their way into the company, whose creative director, designer and technical director Arthur Junghans was himself. The high-volume watch production was well received, as the rationally manufactured watches offered more value at a good price.


Fabriek eind 19e eeuw

The 1886 started production of pocket watches the company had suffered several setbacks. Only through merger with the company Thomas Haller, Schwenningen, which since the late 1890s had successfully produced simple pocket watches, the production range at Junghans for this kind of watches was expanded. In 1888 the company introduced a five-pointed star in the middle of a "J" as trademark. In 1890 the star got eight points. In the same year the legendary Calibre 10 was introduced, which as the standard movement with alarm function was used unchanged for fifty years.

1903 the vision of Arthur Junghans became reality: The company was the world's largest watch factory. With over 3,000 employees were produced more than 3 million watches annually. A spatial expansion at the manufacturing plant was soon required. It was the terrace building that by his step-like structure offered daylight to each workplace in the watch manufacturing.


Bouw nieuwe fabriek

Around 1912 Junghans, as one of the first companies, developed a radioactive luminous color for noctilucent hands of pocket watches and alarm clocks.
1928 the production of wristwatches was started. Initially purchased movements from Ruhla were used, but already from 1930 an own calibre was produced.


Voor den arbeid!

When it comes to mechanical watches, the 1930s were of great significance. The first models from the legendary ‘Meister’ range were produced during this time and were deemed to be the finest watches the company had ever made.
Even after the Second World War, the innovative spirit of the master watchmakers of the house, despite removal of the factory, was unbroken. Already in 1946 the first wristwatch chronograph movement, the legendary J88, was developed. The in-house developed and manufactured calibres of the J-series with manual or automatic winding are counted to be among the best in the 1950s.

WWII

Swiss and German watch contractors signed up with the German Military [ Wehrmacht] before and during WWII as watch and timer suppliers. It was these contractors who proposed the brands and not the watch making companies. The contractor would deal with the manufacturer and due to this fact, we find a host of brands that were utilized by the German Military:

Alpina, Arsa, Buren, Bruchsicher, BWC, Choisi, Civitas, Edo, Freco, Gala, Girard-Perregaux Glycine, Grana, Hanhart, Helbro, Helios, Helma, Helvetia, Junghans, Longeau, Longines, Mimo, Minerva, Moeris, Moser, Mulco, Nisus, Phenix, Record, Recta, Revue, Stabila, Titus, Zenith, General Watch&Co, Grana, Hado, Förster Pforzheim, Gustonia, Flora, Acacia, Bulla, Era, Onda, Onsa, Alpina, Siegerin, Pronto, Monitor, Stowa, Tritona, Wagner, Aeschbach, Para, Berg, Nila, Omega, Mimo, Natalia, Wempe, Geering, Bidlingmaier, Speck, Vogele, Wiemer, Tutima, Hanhart, Zentra, Selza, Aristo, Lemania, Titus, Breitling, IWC, Roamer,Record, Rellum

Most were issued with sub-seconds dial, but the sweep second was also invested in, especially for Pilot Watches, Sub Watches, Artillery and Intelligence And Towards The Last Two Years.

D serial H
Dienstuhr Heer
Service Watch Army (Heer).
Depending on supplier, year, type and branch of service, watches could have a code stamped on case back, and/or the dial would be signed such as: D serial H, D.i. serial H codes for the German Army [Wehrmacht] were placed on all imported watches. A watch made for the German Army by a German company did not have to have the codes.
German Service Codes:
Navy (KM, M or Anchor) Luftwaffe ‘FI’ (Flight) ‘RLM’ (Reich Air Ministry)
Branch Codes:
DH: Dienstuhr Heer D: Dienstuhr Luftwaffe DRGM: Deutsches Reich Gebrauchsmuster
RLM: Reichsluftfahrtministerium KM: Kriegsmarine DU: Dienstuhr (Verwaltung)
The junghans BO-UK I was the cockpit clock of all WW 2 german fighters and bombers.


BO-UK I

On 15 December 1956 the company was taken over by the Diehl Group. From 1957 to 1962 the Swiss artist Max Bill created for the company wall clocks, table clocks and wristwatches in a simple, timeless Bauhaus design, which today enjoy extremely popularity and now are re-edited in a series "max bill by junghans".

1962 the first electro-mechanical wristwatch of the company entered the market. In 1967 followed the first big quartz clock Astro-Chron and in 1970 the first German quartz wristwatch Astro-Quarz. This pioneering work in modern time measurement yielded international recognition: in 1972 the company was the official timekeeper of the Olympic Games in Munich. For the first time colored photo-finish was used, and the precision of the measurements was 1/100 seconds.

In 1976 the manufacture of mechanical watch movements was ended completely and the focus of all development efforts was now fully set on perfecting the quartz watch.

1985 the first mass-produced radio-controlled table clock was presented. It was able to independently synchronize with the atomic clock of the Physikalisch-Technische Bundesanstalt in Braunschweig. Even a year later, in 1986, the world's first radio-controlled solar watch RCS1 could be presented. The world's first radio-controlled wristwatch followed with the model MEGA 1 in the year 1990. Since then, the brand is known for quartz watches with solar power in conjunction with radio control.
For the 15th anniversary of the MEGA 1 in 2005 Junghans introduced the Mega 1000 as a tribute to the classic.

The 1950s also played a key role in the company’s long history. It was during this time that Junghans established itself as Germany’s biggest manufacturer of chronometers. ‘Uhrenfabriken Gebrüder Junghans A.G.’ set new standards in watch-making when it marked the company’s 100 year anniversary in 1961: Each day, 6,000 employees produced 5,000 wrist watches, more than 10,000
alarm clocks and 5,000 kitchen and living room clocks which were exported from Schramberg to a total of 100 countries.

Beside ongoing technological developments, Junghans attaches particular importance to an independent design culture. With the production of Junghans clocks designed by Max Bill from 1956 on, this notion was developed further. The collaboration gave rise to a legendary watch collection
which went on to become a modern design classic. Innovative design features were also launched in the form of the world’s first radiocontrolled watch, Mega 1, in 1990, a fruitful cooperation project with
Frog Design. The years before were also very exciting and saw the company presenting the first German quartz wrist watch, the ‘Astro-Quartz’, in 1970. Additional milestones occurred in the trend-setting 1990s with the first radio-controlled solar watch in 1993 and the use of high-tech materials such as ceramics, the first multi-frequency radio-controlled watch in 2004 and the expansion of the mechanical collection.

In 2000 the watch division was taken over by the EganaGoldpfeil Holding, where it was looked after by the well-known watch expert Heinz W. Pfeifer. The defense technology remained at the Diehl Group. Had the former company's management still held in continued distancing from the traditional, but since the 1980s resurgent mechanics, Pfeifer, who had already led the brands Glashütte Original and Union to a spectacular new success, strongly engaged for a fundamental reorientation of the Junghans collection towards the mechanical watch. Under the motto "From Tradition to Future", the collection has been radically revised. Clearly structured, it is now based on three pillars and thus reflects the main features of the corresponding brand again, "Tradition, Innovation and Continuity."

Thus, the company unveiled at Baselworld 2006 two first own mechanical watch movements and thus emphasized the former, in the meantime, unfortunately, shamefully neglected manufacture expertise of the brand. It was the new Calibre J890, a classic column wheel chronograph movement with date and power reserve indication, and also the new calibre J830 with date and central seconds. Both calibres work with a frequency of 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour and have a power reserve of more than 50 hours. They are also refined with stripes of type "Côtes de Genève" on bridge and rotor. For the decoration of the movement blued screws are used.
For the first time these fine finished movements were used in the series "Arthur Junghans 1861". The prices were between 2.390, - € to 3990, - € and were intended as a real challenge to the established manufacturers.

After the much-discussed breakup of the EganaGoldpfeil holding the future of Junghans was on a knife edge. Due to the good reputation of the brand and tradition, not least because of the decisions already taken towards a new orientation, the value of the company was not in question. Therefore, many applicants came forward who were interested in the continuation of the company. The generally accepted choice in 2009 fell on the local entrepreneur Dr. Hans-Jochem Steim, who along with his son Hannes Steim took over the company. Dr. Steim, a freeman of the city Schramberg had received an e-mail by the Mayor on 22 September 2008, where it was asked whether he could imagine to save Junghans.

In January 2009 Steim father and son decided, to jump on board with two-third (the father) plus one-third (the son). Both have a close affinity to watch themselves - and so are continuing a family tradition. Over a hundred years ago the Carl Haas GmbH, owned by the Kern-Liebers group and today led by Hannes Steim, had supplied Junghans with precision springs. And from the year 1930 the company, also based at Schramberg, had produced Nivarox hairsprings for mechanical movements.
The former Junghans Board, consisting of Werner Wicklein and Matthias Stotz, has been retained. In the meantime the brand "Erhard Junghans" has been reintegrated into Junghans and now plays the role of a collection, similar to the "Max Bill" collection. Werner Wicklein died in May 2010.


Fabriek nu

In 2011, Junghans celebrated its 150 year success story with the launch of three limited edition mechanical models and a fresh interpretation of historic series such as the ‘Meister’ range. For the first time, Junghans combined in its ‘Force’ model the Junghans-own multi-frequency radiocontrolled
technology with solar technology within a ceramic case. The strikingly flat movement is fitted with the patented Junghans Autoscan technology which enables automatic identification of the current signal
transmitter and synchronises the time during travel.

2015

The new line ‘1972’ reflects this year’s motto of ‘time for sportive peak performance’. The models are based on product concepts from that time and include a striking case and fresh colour accents in the 1970’s style. Equipped with the latest technology, they reflect the company’s sporting successes as the official timekeeper at the Olympic Games in Munich in 1972. Thanks to Junghans’ new measuring methods, including measuring time accurate a 100th of a second using the first colour photographs of the finish line, this event saw the revolution of sports time keeping. The design classic max bill by junghans now incorporates a women’s line with enhanced wearing comfort. The re-design of a table
clock, based on original Max Bill design drawings from 1958, perfectly completes the max bill by junghans range.

Currently, Junghans, in partnership with Seiko, is developing a watch which will automatically set the local time in what ever respective time zone a wearer i. Say, you board a plane in NY (US EASTERN TIME) and fly to California (WESTERN US TIME) your watch will reset itself automatically.

Bronnen:
www.junghans.de (btw ook erg mooie catalogi te downloaden daar!)
WatchWikiNet
http://lsyf.com/german-wwii-military-watches-markings-facts/
http://www.cockpitclock.com/JUNGHANS.html

Mijn Junghans Trilastic, 70er jaren smile

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Speedmaster vraagje!

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@cliogek schreef:

Hallo Speedmaster kenners.
Ik sta op het punt om een Omega Speedmaster 861 te gaan bekijken en mogelijk aan te schaffen.
Hebben mensen nog tips waar ik op moet letten? Bijvoorbeeld over wat erbij hoort te zitten af fabriek of wat er fout kan zijn aan het horloge.

Het gaat dus om een 861 Moonwatch van 1986.
Het kan mijn eerste moonwatch worden en tevens mijn eerste vintage.

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Kleine geschiedenis: Enicar

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@RobertGerard schreef:

In het midden van de 16de eeuw groeide Genève (Zwitserland) uit tot het centrum van de horloge-industrie. In 1601 werd in Genève ‘s werelds eerste horlogemakersgilde opgericht. De zaken liepen goed en horlogemakers waren gevraagd. Het Jura-gebergte, ten noorden van Genève, was een lage-lonen-gebied, waar vele boeren - als een soort tijdverdrijf - aangeboden werd om uurwerken te assembleren. Dorpen en steden als La Chaux-de-Fonds, Le Locle, Tramelan, Vallee de Joux, Biel, Lamboing, Longeau en Grenchen werden belangrijke centra van de Zwitserse horloge-industrie. Vele ‘manufactures d’horlogerie’ verhuisden van Genève naar dat gebied en nieuwe bedrijven werden in één van de genoemde steden opgericht. Om de lokale bevolking op te leiden, werden snel horlogemakers-opleidingen (École d’Horlogerie) opgericht in steden als Genève en Besancon (1824), La Chaux-de-Fonds (1865), Le Locle (1866), St-Imier (1867), Biel (1872), Soleure (1884) en Sentier (1901). Neuchâtel had al sinds 1738 een dergelijke school.

De Familie Racine, thuis in de Jura, was een bekende familie van ambachtslieden. Sinds vele eeuwen waren zij betrokken bij de kunst en het vakmanschap. In 1708 wordt David Racine (1669-1726?) genoemd als ‘expert maître horloger’, beroemd vanwege zijn mooie uurwerken. Zijn bloeiend bedrijf maakt het hem in 1729 mogelijk een flinke lap grond te kopen in Montagne de Tramelan-Dessus, Zwitserland. In 1725 kreeg zijn broer Pierre (±1665-1728) van het Gerecht van Bazel het recht om de titel ‘ingenieur-architect’ te voeren. Andere leden van de familie Racine waren eveneens actief in de horloge-industrie.

Ariste Racine & Emma Blatt

Op 1 oktober 1913 startte Ariste Racine (1889-1958) en zijn vrouw Emma Blatt een ‘Manufacture d’Horlogerie Ariste Racine’ in de Rue de Cret 24 in La Chaux-de-Fonds*.

Aangezien de naam ‘Racine’ reeds in 1870 gedeponeerd was door Jules Racine Sr., stelde Emma voor om een anagram van de familienaam, dus ‘ENICAR’, te gebruiken. Ariste Racine registreerde zijn bedrijf en die merknaam op 6 januari 1914 bij het Handelsregister. ENICAR werd alleen als telegramadres gebruikt. In zijn publicaties gebruikte hij de naam ‘Horlogerie Ariste Racine’ (zie de advertentie van november 1914 hieronder).

Ariste en Emma gebruikten de serre van hun woonhuis als werkplaats. Vanwege de beperkte ruimte kon er slechts één technicus werken; twee anderen werkten in hun eigen huis. Eén van de eerste producten was een zakhorloge met de mogelijkheid een kompas of een foto te integreren (zie hieronder). Op 3 februari 1915 liet Ariste Racine 5 modellen registreren. Men produceerde een grote variëteit aan uurwerken van 4 - 17 lignes**.

Verbazend is de bewering in één van zijn advertenties (zie hierboven) dat hij in staat was om 3000 uurwerken per dag te produceren. Het ontwerp was in ieder geval een schot in de roos. Ondanks een wereldoorlog bloeide de handel. Ariste’s uurwerken werden naar Duitsland, Rusland en China geëxporteerd. Vele landden in de zakken van soldaten. Een belangrijke klant was een Japanse handelaar, Tenshodo-san, die al sinds 1889 Zwitserse uurwerken importeerde. Hij was al alleenvertegenwoordiger van Narudan, Tissot en Zenith sinds 1913. Zijn bedrijf - anno 1879 - bestaat nog steeds.


*La Chaux-de-Fonds (ook bekend als ‘watch valley’) is reeds eeuwen een belangrijk horlogemakerscentrum. Vele bedrijven zoals Girard-Perregaux, Rolex, Omega, TAG-Heuer, Breitling, Invicta, Gallet, enz. begonnen hun bestaan hier en zijn er nog steeds gevestigd. Het is ook de geboorteplaats van b.v. Charles-Edouard Jeanneret (1887-1965), beter bekend als Le Corbusier, de beroemde architect. Zijn familie zat ook in de uurwerkindustrie. En natuurlijk Louis-Joseph Chevrolet (1878-1941), die naar Amerika emigreerde en aldaar (met twee anderen) de Chevrolet Motor Car Company oprichtte. In 1915 verkocht hij zijn aandelen aan William Durant, de oprichter van General Motors. Alhoewel Zwitserland in de W.W. I neutraal bleef werd La Chaux-de-Fonds twee maal militair bezet.
**Ligne is een Frans meetsysteem voor uurwerken; 1 Ligne = 1/12de van een Franse Voet = 2,2558 mm.


Longeau Watch Co.

Ariste Racine opende tevens een radiumzetterij, daar radium gebruikt werd op de wijzers en wijzerplaat van vele uurwerken; hierdoor waren ze in het donker leesbaar. Daar de verkoop floreerde, had Ariste meer ruimte nodig. In 1916 huurde hij een deel van het huis van zijn moeder in Longeau (Lengnau). Men noemde dat filiaal ‘Longeau Watch Co’. In 1918 kocht Racine het gehele huis en een stuk grond ernaast en werd Longeau de officiële zetel van het bedrijf. De Racine’s waren ook actief op de (nog steeds) beroemde Plainpalais-markt in Genève. Het filiaal aldaar werd overigens in januari 1931 gesloten.

Oskar Racine, de broer van Ariste, trad in 1918 toe tot het bedrijf. Hij bezat een fabriek van uurwerkassen in Biel, die hij in mei 1930 ophief. Zowel Ariste als Oskar waren briljante handelaren en waren tevens inventief. Wederom groeide men uit moeder’s huis, dus bouwde men een nieuwe fabriek in Longeau. Sinds eind 1919 werd die fabriek operationeel en werd tevens de naam ENICAR op alle producten en reclame-uitingen gebruikt.

In de nieuwe fabriek begon men eigen uurwerken (AR) te produceren; tot dan gebruikte men overwegend uurwerken van Adolph Schild (AS)***.


Adolph Schild (1844-1915) opende zijn uurwerkfabriek in 1896. Zijn broer Urs (1829-1888) was de oprichter van de manufacture, die later bekend werd o.d.n. ETERNA. Adolph Schild ontwierp vele uurwerken en werd de belangrijkste toeleverancier van menig Zwitserse horlogemaker. Zijn fabriek overleefde de kwarts-crisis niet en sloot in 1983. ETERNA landde - via vele omwegen - uiteindelijk in The Swatch Group.


ENICAR S.A.

Om mogelijke risico’s te mijden gingen Ariste en Emma Blatt op 11 juni 1924 een huwelijk op voorwaarden aan. Op 11 april 1932 werd de onderneming ENICAR Société Anonyme (vergelijkbaar met een NV) genoemd en kreeg het een startkapitaal van 50.000 Zwitserse Franken. In 1934 trad Ariste Junior, zoon van Ariste Senior en Emma, tot de onderneming toe; per 30 oktober 1939 werd hij algemeen directeur. Zijn zus Paulette Racine en Otto Bratschi (waarschijnlijk haar man) kregen een volmacht.
Op 14 april 1943 werd het ondernemingskapitaal verhoogd tot 150.000 Zw. Fr. door de uitgifte van 20 aandelen van elk 5.000 Zw. Fr. Zowel Ariste Sr. als Emma traden uit de onderneming, terwijl Ariste Jr. zijn functie als algemeen directeur behield. Paulette en Otto behielden tevens hun volmacht. Nadat Ariste Racine Sr. op 13 oktober 1958 overleed, werd Ariste Jr. voorzitter van de raad van bestuur van ENICAR S.A. Broer Oskar vierde in juni 1968 zijn 50-jarige deelneming in de onderneming. Het is niet bekend hoe lang hij bij het bedrijf betrokken is geweest.
ENICAR S.A. heeft - onder andere - de navolgende merknamen laten registreren: ENICAR, Longeau, Etsira, Alprosa, Swisbaby, Swisboy, Teddy, Chrono M, Sykos en Chromocar.

Na de Tweede Wereldoorlog

Zwitserland is gedurende de twee wereldoorlogen neutraal gebleven. Dat deed Zwitserland (en andere neutrale landen) overigens geen kwaad. Zoals we allemaal weten: in tegendeel!
In 1914 bedroeg het in Zwitserland ingelegde buitenlandse spaargeld ruim 1,8 miljard Frank; aan het eind van de W.O. II was dat gegroeid tot 6,6 miljard Frank. Als we het jaar 1914 als index 100 nemen, dan zou 1945 uitkomen op een index van 209; dus met een inflatiecorrectie zou het ingelegde spaargeld nog altijd 3,2 miljard Frank bedragen.
ENICAR deed goede zaken met buitenlandse regeringen (lees: legers). Na de W.O. II moest ENICAR zich meer op de consument richten. Ariste Jr. kende de Europese markten goed. In 1953 werd in Oensingen een nieuwe fabriek en laboratorium geopend, alwaar alle uurwerken ‘ultrasonic’ gereinigd werden. Deze moderne reinigingsmethode werd op elke wijzerplaat gegraveerd of gedrukt. ENICAR was ook in staat om de metalen oppervlakten van de uurwerken te epilamiseren (om uitlopen van smeermiddelen te voorkomen).

Moderne productiemethoden werden geïntroduceerd en de verkopen stegen gestaag. In het begin van de 1950-er jaren werden jaarlijks meer dan 70.000 uurwerken gefabriceerd. ENICAR ontwikkelde interessante uurwerken, die duurzaam en betrouwbaar bleken. Op 16 juli 1954 ontving ENICAR voor haar kaliber 1010 het eerste ‘Gangschein’; (certificaat van nauwkeurigheid) van de Neuchâtel voorloper van de COSC (Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres = Zwitserse Officiële Inspectie van Chronometers; opgericht in 1973).
Een waterdicht polshorloge met een nieuw ontworpen kast (met bajonetsluiting) werd in 1955 geïntroduceerd als ‘Seapearl’; op de sluitplaat is een open oester gegraveerd, misschien om concurrent Rolex te plagen. ‘Seapearl’ werd al geregistreerd als merknaam op 10 april 1953. In 1956 werd de eerste automatische chronometer (gebaseerd op een Felsa 1560 kaliber) geïntroduceerd. Drie jaar later produceerde ENICAR zelf een automatisch kaliber (1125). Kaliber 1125, 116 en 1127 werden aangeboden als ‘Rubyrotor’ met 33 ‘jewels’ (robijnen). Aangezien die uurwerken nogal broos bleken te zijn, werd er ook een versie met stalen lagers (1145) aangeboden.
ENICAR’s eerste automatische chronometer* polshorloge was de ENICAR Supertest (kaliber 1124, 30 jewels, ook bekend als Supertest 300 kaliber), alhoewel het niet een officiële chronometer was, aangezien het door geen enkel testinstituut ooit getest was. ENICAR testte haar horloges volgens een eigen ontworpen testprocedure - van 3 dagen - zelf, en wel met een maximale tolerantie van 5 seconden. Elk afzonderlijk uurwerk werd geleverd met een testcertificaat.


*In 1925 stelde de Zwitserse Vereniging van Chronometrie dat ‘een chronometer is een uurwerk dat een certificaat van een astronomisch observatorium heeft verkregen’. Daarbij dient aangetekend te worden dat de testen door een observatorium vanwege de duur en diepgang, het lage aantal beschikbaar gekomen chronometers de handel in hoge mate had beperkt.


De meeste uurwerken voor ENICAR chronometers (b.v. Valjoux 23, 72 en 92) werden elders ingekocht. Alarmklokken werden bij Adolphe Schild en Lemania ingekocht. Toen ENICAR in 1959 probeerde zelf een alarmklok te produceren, kostte dat ENICAR een zeer dure rechtszaak vanwege patentinbreuken.


“Precision time in space, on the earth and over the seas”

ENICAR’s slogan in de 1950-er jaren.


Sherpa

ENICAR uurwerken waren graag gezien in Noord-Europa, Rusland, China en de VS (alwaar neef Jules Racine*** ENICAR uurwerken verkocht). Zowel Ariste Sr. als Ariste Jr. hadden een goede neus voor public relations. Zij verzonnen vele stunts en nodigden vele beroemdheden uit om hun uurwerken te promoten.


*** In 1635 emigreerde de eerste Racine (Etienne Racine 1607-1689) naar ‘Nieuw Frankrijk’, tegenwoordig Quebec, Canada. Jules Racine Sr. (in januari 1828 in Zwitserland geboren) emigreerde als horlogemaker rond 1849 naar New York, VS. In 1864 opende zijn neef Lucien Gallet (1834-1879) een Gallet verkoopkantoor in Chicago; een paar jaar later vroeg hij Jules Racine om zijn filiaal in New York te leiden. In 1870 introduceerde Jules Racine Gallet uurwerken onder zijn eigen - gedeponeerde - naam ‘Jules Racine’. In 1877 verkreeg hij de alleenvertegenwoordiging van Gallet uurwerken in de VS; later werd hij bijgestaan door zijn zwager Oscar Hauriott (geboren in 1849). Gallet is een Zwitserse uurwerkmaker sinds het begin van de 15de eeuw (!) met verkoop- (en later) productiefaciliteiten in de VS. Gallet USA nam in 1975 de Racine Company in de VS over.


Op 18 mei 1956 bereikte een Zwitserse expeditie de top van de Lhotse (8516 meter) in de Himalaya. 4 dagen later bereikte men de top van de Mount Everest (8848). Alle expeditieleden droegen ENICAR Seapearl polshorloges. Die bleken net zo betrouwbaar als de Sherpa dragers; hetgeen leidde tot de naam ‘Sherpa’. Die merknaam werd op 6 november 1956 gedeponeerd. Vanaf dat moment werden vele Sherpa-varianten geïntroduceerd. De absolute top was de Sherpa-Graph met een Valjoux 72 uurwerk, dat ook in de Rolex Daytona te vinden is.
In 1957 maakte een replica van het beroemde schip de Mayflower een oversteek vanuit Europa over de Atlantische Oceaan naar de VS. Aan de kiel was een soort kooi bevestigd met daarin een ENICAR polshorloge. Dat horloge overleefde de oversteek en dus was de ‘Ocean Pearl’ geboren. Een variant hierop was de Sherpa Dive, die in 1958 werd geïntroduceerd, een jaar later gevolgd door een verbeterd ontwerp.

Een andere stunt was in januari 1963 georganiseerd: een normaal Sherpa polshorloge werd onder notarieel toezicht aan een ski vastgemaakt. De ski werd 1 week lang gebruikt voor diverse afdalingen; onnodig te zeggen dat het horloge - alhoewel vaak bevroren - deze test prima doorstond.

13 oktober 1958 overleed Ariste Racine Sr. De Zwitserse fotograaf en beeldhouwer Willie Ernst (1900-1980) maakte deze gedenkplaat van Ariste Racine in 1958.

De export neem toe; in 1960 opende ENICAR zelfs een verkoopkantoor in Johannesburg, Zuid-Afrika!
In 1961 werd het eerste elektro-mechanische uurwerk geïntroduceerd. Schutters, die in 1964 in Tokyo aan de Olympische Spelen meededen, droegen ENICAR horloges. In 1965 volgde de ‘Star’-collectie. Vele Star-modellen waren de opvolgers van de Sherpa-modellen: Sherpa Dive werd Star Dive enz.
Behalve heren- en dames-polshorloges en (reis-)wekkers maakte ENICAR ook chronometers voor vliegtuigen, boten en auto’s. Beroemde coureurs, zoals Stirling Moss en Jimmy Clark, droegen ENICAR horloges. ENICAR was ook actief als officiële tijdwaarnemer bij diverse auto-, boot- en wielerwedstrijden.

Kwartscrisis.

In 1969 veroverden goedkope en fancy horloges met kwartsuurwerken (gevoed door een batterij) uit Japan de horlogewereld. De hierop volgende zg. kwartscrisis veroorzaakte een ware slachting onder de Zwitserse uurwerkindustrie. Vele fabrieken moesten hun poorten sluiten. ENICAR introduceerde in 1970 als één van de eerste Zwitserse fabrikanten kwartshorloges, gebruikmakend van Beta21 uurwerken, die ontwikkeld waren door de CEH (Centre Electronique Horloger)* in Zwitserland. Er werd zelfs een Sherpa Quartz geïntroduceerd.
*CEH is een coöperatief onderzoekslaboratorium dat in 1962 in Neuchâtel werd opgericht. Een industrieel consortium van 16 Zwitserse uurwerkfabrikanten werd in 1968 gevormd om de Beta21 uurwerken (13 jewels, 8 kHz kwarts module) en masse te produceren.

Vele andere Zwitserse uurwerkfabrikanten werden gered door Mr. Swatch, bijnaam van Nicholas Hayek (1928-2010), oprichter van The Swatch Group. Hij presteerde het om vele Zwitserse fabrikanten te mobiliseren, teneinde de concurrentie van goedkope Aziatische producten te lijf te gaan.
Helaas leed ENICAR grote verliezen, hetgeen leidde tot een aankondiging van de surseance van betaling op 13 november 1987. Velen waren verbaasd te vernemen dat ENICAR S.A. op 8 februari 1988 failliet verklaard werd. De voorraad uurwerken (hoofdzakelijk kaliber 160 en automatisch kaliber 1145B) werd opgekocht door Gerd-Rüdiger Lang, die een ‘manufacture’ startte o.d.n. ‘Chronoswiss’.
De merknaam ENICAR werd in 1988 gekocht door een Aziatische investeerder, die tevergeefs probeert met ENICAR polshorloges van beduidend mindere kwaliteit een marktaandeel in Azië te veroveren, door te beweren dat ENICAR al in 1854 werd opgericht door ene Artiste Racine!! Ariste Racine's vader was een bekend architect in Grenchen en 'deed' niets in uurwerken!
ENICAR uurwerken werden in Nederland geïmporteerd door de Firma Van der Spek in Amsterdam.

ENICAR waarschuwde reeds in 1918 voor illegale ENICAR horloges!
Zwitserse ENICAR uurwerken (1913-1988) waren en zijn nog steeds uitstekende polshorloges, die de kwalitatieve vergelijking met horloges als die van Rolex, Omega, IWC en andere kunnen doorstaan. Op de tweedehandsmarkt blijven de prijzen relatief hoog. Vroege AR uurwerken en uurwerken, die voor vliegtuigen werden geproduceerd, zijn zeer zeldzaam geworden. Verzamelaars dienen voorzichtig te zijn, aangezien vele kopieën met de naam ENICAR wereldwijd verkrijgbaar zijn.


Fabriek nu

Een paar milestones:

Bronnen:
http://www.enicarcollectors.net/enicarE2.htm
http://www.enicar.com
http://the-watching.blogspot.nl/2010/11/enicar-star-jewels.html

(Vertaling:
http://nicovandijk.net/enicarN2.htm
http://nicovandijk.net/enicarmodels.htm)

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Nieuw binnen: Vulcain

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@flowert schreef:

Beste forumleden,
Zoals eerder deze week al aangekondigd: mijn Vulcain is binnen uit België. Ik heb hem gekocht op basis van zeer vage foto's, maar ik kon ongeveer wel zien dat het wel een Vulcain betrof, alleen welk model etc. was er niet uit op te maken.

Gisterenmiddag plofte hij op de mat (gewoon, met een paar postzegels erop smile ) en ik kan wel zeggen dat hij er fantastisch uit ziet: ongedragen, origineel bandje, doosje, helemaal perfect. Enige minpunt is dat iemand heeft geprobeerd het deksel open te maken met nogal wat geweld(!). Daar zitten een paar forse krassen op.
Oh ja, hij loopt ook als een zonnetje voor zover ik dat heb kunnen zien in die korte tijd.

Is er iemand die me iets over dit horloge kun vertellen behalve dat het een Vulcain Directime automaat is? Uurwerk? Historie? Ik ben niet van plan deze te houden dus wellicht zal ik hem binnenkort ergens verkopen of ruilen, maar ik kan er zó weinig over vinden dat ik echt geen enkele inschatting kan maken.
Maar goed, genoeg gel#ld smile tijd voor plaatjes:




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NA: Dugena 7733

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@GuillaumeNOS schreef:

Allen,

Bij deze mijn nieuwe aanwinst, een vintage Dugena 'Regatta' Chrono met een Valjoux 7733. Horloge overgenomen van forumleden Ghentwatch.

Ghentwatch heeft in een andere post meerdere mooie foto's van het horloge gepost, onder alleen nog een wristshot.

Wie heeft meer informatie over Dugen en/of deze chrono. Schatting van leeftijd is '71-'73.

Ik begrijp van WatchWiki het volgende:

Quote

Beginning as Alpina Germany
The name "Dugena" is one of Germany's most famous watch brands. The roots of the company lie in Switzerland, namely with the Swiss watchmaker association Corporation d'Horlogers Suisse, which was founded in 1883 by Gottlieb Hauser. This was called Union Horlogère from 1901 and presented itself at this time with the brand name Alpina, which was first used as the name of a proprietary caliber.

Renaming of the German Alpina to Dugena
From about 1909, there is a branch in Glashütte, which bears the name "Präcisions-Uhrenfabrik Alpina". 1917 the Deutsche Uhrmachergenossenschaft Alpina (German watchmaker cooperative Alpina) is created by the concentration of the watch factories Biel-Geneva and Glashütte in Eisenach. 1927 their headquarters is moved to Berlin.

During World War II, the Allies prohibit the Union Horlogère to continue to market in Germany under the name "Alpina". Therefore, 1942 in Berlin it is decided to rename Alpina into "DUGENA - Deutsche Uhrmacher-Genossenschaft Alpina" (German watchmaking cooperative Alpina). As a unique trademark the circle in the triangle is chosen, under which the new brand achieves a high level of awareness.

Great Success after the War
1948, the headquarters of Dugena, which had been in the eastern part of Berlin, is moved to Darmstadt. Under the successful management of the director Willi Tempel Dugena becomes a byword for reliable and modern quality watches in West Germany.

The years of the Wirtschaftswunder (German economic miracle after the war) as well as the 1960s and the 1970s bring unparalleled success to the company. Both with ladies watches as with men's watches the brand gaines a considerable reputation. As one of only very few watch manufacturers Dugena is not affected by the quartz crisis, as it manages to establish itself with high quality quartz collections and is thereby open to new buyer generations. In 1973 Dugena is represented at 2,000 watch stores throughout Germany. Even in large department stores, the brand is continuously present.

Part of the holding Egana Goldpfeil
From 1993, Dugena is part of the EganaGoldpfeil group based in Offenbach, whose holding company is based in Hong Kong. However, this holding gets into heavy turbulence after the death of its founder Hans-Jörg Seeberger in 2007. This becomes the fate of all brands located under its roof, including the watch brands Junghans and Dugena.

Under new Management
The foundation of the Nova Tempora Uhren und Schmuck GmbH (Nova Tempora Watches and Jewellery Ltd.), based in Dietzenbach, on July 1, 2009 marks a new beginning for Dugena. This company is headed by Heinz W. Pfeifer, former managing partner of Glashütte Original, and Jürgen Holzschuh - like Pfeifer former Manager at EganaGoldpfeil. Responsible for sales management is Christoph Kohl, former head of the EganaGoldpfeil Deutschland GmbH.

The current offer includes mainly the following five model series: Active (sports models), City (Business Line), Classic, Gala (ladies watches), Cavalier ( pocket watches). The proportion of quartz watches is predominant.

2010, a new brand branch headed by Jürgen Holzschuh is established, which also offers watches with mechanical calibers: Dugena Premium.

Unqoute

Verder hebben ze tot de jaren zestig een ander logo gevoerd:

Het lijkt mij dat het logo van mijn horloge eind jaren 60 is geïntroduceerd.

Altijd benieuwd naar meer informatie over dit merk. Al met al vind ik het een mooi horloge, maar hoor graag wat de kenners er van vinden.

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Rommelmarkt vondsten van de laatste tijd en wat opknap werkzaamheden ;-)

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@beobachter schreef:

Ik heb de laatste tijd weer wat leuke vondsten gedaan op horlogegebied.

Van een Vlaamse dame behoorlijk wat horlogebanden kunnen overnemen uit een oude juwelierszaak.
Veel van de banden zijn volgens mij voor horloges met fixed lugs aangezien de uiteinden vastgeplakt dienen te worden.
Er zitten er behoorlijk wat bij van het merk "prestige" iemand bekend hiermee?
Logo lijkt verdacht veel op het rolex merk.


Tussen de banden zat ook een mooie rvs Longines band blijkbaar voor de Lungo Mare?

Gisteren kocht ik nog twee leuke mechanische horloge's die ik heb voorzien van een nieuw bandje uit de verzameling die ik nu opeens heb en heb ze wat opgepoetst om ze nog wat netter te maken.

De eerste is een Edox met een ETA 7001 uurwerk waarvan ik eerst dacht dat het om een quarts horloge ging gezien de geringe dikte van de kast.
Wijzerplaat lijkt wel van wit emaille en wat ik wel apart vind is dat het Edox logo niet boven de merknaam staat...na wat zoeken heb ik er nog wat voorbij zien komen zo zonder de zandloper boven de merknaam.
Iemand een idee hoe oud dit horloge is?


De andere is een Mutrix waarvan ik door de zoekfunctie weet dat het een Belgisch merk betreft met een Unitas 6376 uurwerk.
Het plexiglas was behoorlijk gehavend dus ben aan de gang gegaan met mijn Sonax krassen verwijder set die ik al eens op een rommelmarkt kocht en het resultaat mag er wezen naar mijn idee smile




Morgen weer even loeren dus wie weet nog wat te melden dan smile

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@RobertGerard schreef:

Tot nu toe verschenen, voor diegene die ze nog eens willen naslaan smile

Dank voor jullie waardering! smile

Dinsdag: DOXA

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